I was shitting in my pants but I couldn’t really say anything as she was in the zone and nothing I said was reaching her. Fine, I got chewed up really bad when I voiced my complaint so I just sat there scared out of wits but stayed silent the whole time like the sissy little boy that I am.

Imagine zooming down those flat roads– virgin forests to your left, lush yellow green rice paddies to your right with the horizon going on and on. Man I could see myself riding a Ducati and going full throttle for hours on end. Except that I don’t have a Ducati. Oh well, one can dream.

Perhaps the coming election has a lot to do with these roads being done on time. I couldn’t really complain as everything was just marvelous. Kudos to the provincial government of Surigao Del Sur for getting this done. Or should I say kudos to the people for paying their taxes. At least we know that our taxes are working for us. Majority of those taxes may have ended up in a few people’s pockets but hey, non-politicians can’t be choosers so we just have to be thankful with what we can see and experience. Don’t agree with me? Well that’s too bad.

And that’s how my Tinuy-an Falls quest started; with a few internet queries, an exaggerated gasp of admiration, and a few directions.
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After my awesome experience with the Hinatuan River, I was already bent on going to Tinuy-an Falls after seeing how beautiful the waterfalls looked with its series of water curtains. That not everyone can go there, just like the enchanted river, only increased it’s value in my eyes.

So when my vacation time arrived, there were no questions as to where to go; Bislig City is ‘it’ and their hidden gem of a waterfall, Tinuy-an Falls.

But as they say, a little knowledge is dangerous, and kids, this is very true, don’t be like this pinoytraveller who only does very little research and leaves a lot of things to chance.

So far however, chance has a way of making things very, very interesting for me. When I visited the Bislig government website to do my err.. research, it only says that Tinuy-an Falls is only 18km from the city, and a route was even given:

Poblacion->San Isidro->Burboanan->Tinuy-an

Easy as pie right? I should just go to Bislig City in Surigao del Sur, ask around for directions going to Poblacion, and from there get some kind of transportation that goes to San Isidro then Burboanan and then voila! I should already be in Tinuy-an. More research? Puhlease.

Bachelor Express Terminal Butuan City

So at 2:00 in the morning, I was already at the Butuan bus terminal waiting for my two elves, my usual travel companions in this part of the country. That things weren’t going to be very smooth sailing started the moment I sat in one of the terminal’s stools. First, I saw a black cat. And not just any black cat. This black cat is pregnant! Have you ever seen a pregnant black cat? Right? Right?

So for the 2:45 am first trip, naturally, the elves didn’t arrive on time. It was the black cat of course. No question about that. The elves only arrived around 3:30 just in time for the 4:00am second trip. I wasn’t really pissed because I already expected things to go wrong, what with the pregnant black cat and all.

4:00 AM Trip – Butuan City – Mangagoy [Ticket cost P236]

When we finally got seated on the bus, I asked some of the passengers if they were from Bislig City and if they know the way to Tinuy-an Falls. Of course I already have the directions but you know, sometimes you really have to confirm the veracity of what you have.

Good thing was, some of them are from Bislig City. But the not so very good thing was, they have no idea how to go to Tinuy-an Falls. Hmm, bummer that one. I tried to steer them in the right direction and asked them how if they know how to go to Poblacion or San Isidro? I only got empty stares.

‘Oh boy, things are really starting to unravel now.‘ I thought as our bus sped down the Agusan Del Norte highway en route to Mangagoy.

I told one of the Bislig residents that it really doesn’t matter as we can always ask the guys from the local tourism office in Bislig. The passenger said ‘But the tourism office is all the way in Mangagoy‘. Crap.

7:57 AM Bislig City – Middle of Nowhere

I was looking for some big structures or anything resembling a public market when we arrived in Bislig City. When the bus parked in a practically deserted bus terminal, we got off after confirming with the bus driver that it is already Bislig City. The driver asked if we really wanted to get off there and not in Mangagoy. It seemed to me that the driver knew more about the Tinuy-an Falls and he just let those Bislig residents go on and on and on.

So what do you do in the middle of nowhere with nobody coherent to ask for directions? Why, take pictures of course!

Elves With Shades on the Boulevard

Here’s the very nice Bislig City boulevard. Can you picture yourself here at night, holding a very cold bottle of beer and dipping really fresh grilled fish in vinegar and soy sauce and hot chili? That’s what we did in Siargao, but that’s another story.

After the photoshoot, we talked to some locals who were sunning themselves along the boulevard. The guy we asked said that we should look for transportation going to Tinuy-an Falls in the Mangagoy Market. My heart sank. We were still in Bislig City and the guy was saying that we should go all the way to Mangagoy.

I asked the guy how long it would take for us to arrive in Mangagoy? He said, pointing to something in the distance, that is already Mangagoy. WTF! It turns out that Mangagoy is actually part of Bislig. And we only have to ride a tricycle to get there.

8:00 AM Finding Neverland, Shangri-la, and The Carenderia To Rule Them All

With renewed enthusiasm, we asked the tricycle driver we hired where to find a transport that will take us to Tinuy-an. He said that there’s really no public transportation that goes to Tinuy-an. But there are habal-habal’s that go there, and he could even get some guy to take us. I knew then that the curse of the pregnant black cat was finally lifting.

We immediately agreed and asked him to take us to a really good place to eat. Sensing that we were hungry, he said that we should just eat in a carenderia where food is readily available. He took us to carenderia Halang-Halang (literal translation, Hot-Hot or Spicy-Spicy). The little carenderia had very simple food to choose from, but they sure know how to make them very delicious. We ate like it’s going out of style and our total bill amounted to— P220 for three persons. That’s less than US$5! How’s that for a full third world meal?

9:00 Reunited with the Habal-Habal [Cost P100/head]

By 9:00 am we were already on our way to the Tinuy-an Falls. The Habal-Habal driver charged us P100 per head for the 15km ride. This time however, instead of just us and the driver, the tricycle driver decided to tag along so for one motorcycle, there were 5 persons riding it. What could be more fun? And with the really gravelly and rough up and down terrain any slip and we could lose our kneecaps.

9:30 AM Tinuy-an Falls at Last

But, luck was on our side and we arrived safely at the foot of the Tinuy-an Falls after a 30-minute ride. And as you can see, all those weird situations, the very dangerous habal-habal ride, and even the incident with the black cat all melted in the background as we looked at the magnificent Tinuy-an Falls.

Tinuy-an Falls at last! Not enough water though. lol.

– CLICK HERE FOR MORE TINUY-AN FALLS PICTURES –

Going Back

5 hours later, we were back in Carenderia Halang-Halang, had another sinful feast then waited for the bus going back to Butuan.

All in all the daytrip cost us the following:

Butuan – Bislig Bus Fare – P236 X 2 = 572
Habal Habal Fare – 100 X 2 = 200
Food 80 X 2 = 160

That’s less than P1,000 or $20 per person, but the experience itself is priceless.

Ok, some pointers.

1. The first trip to Bislig is around 1:50 am from Butuan. Just ask any tricycle driver to take you to the bus terminal. However, I would advise you taking the 3:45am trip as it would be the perfect time to arrive in Mangagoy.

2. Do not get off at the Bus terminal in Bislig! There’s nothing there. Ask the driver to drop you off at the Mangagoy palengke or market.

3. Hire a tricycle and ask the person to take you to Halang-Halang carenderia. Fare should only be around P7 per head.

4. Talk to your tricycle driver and ask him to help you get a habal habal driver.

5. Have your breakfast at Halang – Halang while waiting for your Habal – Habal driver.

6. Buy lots of food and water if you wanna have a picnic at Tinuy-an Falls
There are lots of cottages at Tinuy-an Falls that you can hire for P100/day but there are no stores there. Entrance fee is at P10/head.

That’s it. If there’s anything else you need to know, send me a note.
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When it was my turn, I summoned all my courage, closed my eyes and took the leap. I thought my eardrums would pop. I felt a stinging sensation in the inside of my arms (maybe because I was flailing too much) but I felt deep satisfaction for having jumped.

I’m not so sure if I will be able to return to this river again. I’m just glad that for once in my life I was able to see it with my own eyes. Not many Filipinos can say they did.
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V

The river’s water is blue! And it looks like a huge V! lol. When I jumped into the water, I was expecting some difficulty swimming– it being a river and all, there’s bound to be less buoyancy compared to deep sea swimming so you’ll have to paddle more to stay afloat. But that wasn’t the case here. I had no trouble keeping afloat at all. Maybe it’s all because of my baby fat (harhar) I don’t know. It’s just a joy to swim in that river.

The water was cold but not cold enough to make you shiver. It’s a refreshing kind of cold. I tried opening my eyes under water and when I came up, there was no sting at all. Maybe it’s the mixture of the fresh and seawater that toned down the water down. Of course, I have to taste the water as well (not swallow it though) there are traces of salt in it but it’s still freshwater.

Tale #1 It is said that the enchanted river’s bottom has never been reached.  True on any given day, one can see the bottom from the banks of the  river.  However those who have ventured down say that there’s still a  crevice that is enough for one man to go down into.  To this date a few  brave souls have already tried only to come back and say that they can’t reach the bottom.  It is a bottomless pit.

Sitting by the river bank, looking at the bottomless river, it’s like staring at an abyss. And you know how it is with the abyss. You stare at it long enough, it starts to stare back at you as well. In no time I was expecting monoliths to come up from down there and swallow me whole. Instead I saw lots of Nemo’s friends playing near the rocks and some colored fishes as well that are big enough (some bigger) to be grilled.

…to be continued
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As with most of my trips, this one’s a spur of the moment thing.  The significant other was supposed to meet me in Manila but since it’s a long weekend, I convinced her that I should be the one going home to the province instead.  The roundtrip fare nearly cost me an arm and a leg, but that’s the consequence for unplanned trips ( I paid P7.5K, ouch!).
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They say the road to hell is paved with good intentions...

There’s no lack of companions when going to any part of the country as long as you shoulder everything (in this trip, I did). But since Hinatuan is a bit closer to home and I knew that there wasn’t bound to be any expensive destinations in that area, I happily treated my elves (two of them) for the entire trip.

Elves are good companions too!

By 2:45 our bus was cruising out of the terminal.  Upon advise from one of the passengers, we bought our breakfast in one of the terminal stalls.  The goodhearted passenger said that there’s no accomodation around the river so it’s best that we bring along food and water.  He also said that we can get off crossing Dugmanon (a barrio right before Hinatuan town) where there are habal-habal’s waiting for passengers going to the enchanted river.

The bus trip to Hinatuan was surprisingly quick and comfortable.  There were a few rough roads, but it made of for only around 10% of the trip.  We were standing on Dugmanon soil 3 hours after our bus left the station, wondering where the hell all those habal-habals were.  Of course it was still before 6 in the morning so we were’nt really expecting any at that hour.  We did hope though.

Good thing that we chanced upon some guy who was getting water from a nearby water pump.  He said he has a habal-habal and volunteered to take us to the enchanted river and back for P250.  The amount may be laughable for some folks but remember, this is the province and the cost of living is way, way low compared to the city.  I thought it was a very good deal so I agreed.

This, is a habalhabal...

A little seque here.  What is a habal-habal?  Simply put it’s just your ordinary motorbike modified so it can fit an unbelievable number of people and bring them to their destination.  Some habal-habals can fit up to six people in one go.  There are habal-habals who have wings but that’s another story.

Anyway, our habal-habal turned out to be a modified scooter.  Oh lord, I was already rubbing my knees just looking at it.  Can you imagine three big-assed men fitting into that thing?  Let alone four?  But we were in a crazy mood so we got on it, bags, food, water, and all.

Trust me, this is as tame as they get.

The roads were terrible.  Not much mud or potholes but rocks protruded everywhere!  One slip on one of those rocks and we say goodbye to our knees.  Our habal-habal driver also had to negotiate a few uphill climbs on those same roads.  One of my companions was sitting in front of the driver so he had to crane his neck sideways just to see the road.

Seeing these habal-habals negotiate such roads is enough to make safety professionals scream bloody murder.

Anyway we arrived at the river in one piece and in less than 30 minutes time.  And then I panicked.

…to be continued

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